艺术动态

一代大师的缅怀,追忆 Alexander McQueen

Alexander the great

一代大师的缅怀,追忆Alexander McQueen

 

近日,著名时尚历史学家 Judith Watt 撰写了鬼才设计师 Alexander McQueen 的最新传记《Alexander McQueen: The Life and the Legacy》。本书详细的记录了鬼才 McQueen 的事业生涯和生活琐碎。但这不是一本纯粹的传记,而是专注于他的生活和工作。从早期的裁缝学徒到他在中央圣马丁艺术与设计学院里的学习,再到生涯最后一场巴黎时装秀,记录着大师的一生。Watt  McQueen 工作过的同事里收集到大量的一手资料,让读者们更容易走进这位传奇鬼才设计师的艺术世界里。

 

 

 

There have been three designers whose work changed the way women looked and whose influence has continued: Coco Chanel, Yves St Laurent and Lee Alexander McQueen. That’s the view of fashion historian Judith Watt, author of a new book on McQueen, one of several on the designer published this season. McQueen took his own life nearly three years ago at the age of 40.

Watt’s book, though not a biography, concentrates on the designer’s life and work. It provides fascinating insights into his early training as a tailor, with first-hand accounts from people who worked with him, and chronicles the background and inspiration behind each of his collections from the first ones in London right up to the final runway shows in Paris.

The book covers the formative years in Savile Row and Central St Martins, his time in Givenchy and finally the years at Gucci culminating in the last collections and his legacy. The illustrations are lavish and demonstrate the breadth and scale of his work from its earliest beginnings to the memorable, confrontational, later collections in Paris. In addition to some of the more familiar imagery, there are many photographs and drawings that have not been seen before.

McQueen’s Scottish roots were, he once said, “everything” to him and informed one of his first collections called Banshee (he was a great fan of Sinéad O’Connor) to one of his last called Highland Rape. His cinematic sense of the spectacle made invitations to his shows in Paris the most sought after in the French fashion week. He launched low-rise bumster trousers, reintroduced tailoring for women and experimented with silhouette, proportion and spiral cutting around the body. Today, his name lives on under the gifted hand of Sarah Burton whose approach is gentler, “the shocks and jaw-dropping brilliance have dimmed”, but is a thriving business that last year had sales of £41 million in the UK, Italy and the US and £5 million profits.

 

(英文信息来自伦敦艺术大学)

 

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